A+ for juxtsposition!

Territ'ry FM is waaay my favorite radio station around here. I remember my first weekend here, being totally thrilled to hear Neverending Story, and they have not stopped surprising me with the random half-forgotten songs they choose to play.

Today, when I got in the car after work, Led Zeppelin's "Kashmir" was on, so I cranked it and was rocking out. Obviously, "Walking in a Winter Wonderland" was the clear choice for the next song. Especially considering it's a blistering hot September day in the desert. Amazing.

Today was a rough day at work (somehow everyone ended up leaving early, leaving me with all of their rooms to clean solo. blergh). But it's amazing hoe music can 100% change your mood. That, and knowing that you get to go on vacation (again! I know!) tomorrow with your awesome aunt and awesome little cousins. Roadtrip to Darwin!!! w00t!!!

Day 12: leaving (my heart in) New Zealand

Saturday, September 13th~

Today is a cold and gray day, identical to the one that greeted me on my arrival in Christchurch just over a week ago. It gives a sort of symmetry to the trip, I suppose. I got up and checked out of the hostel, stashed my stuff there and went off to say my goodbyes to New Zealand. Last night, Chelsea and Scotty had told me about a market that happens every Saturday, so I headed there first. They hadn’t quite finished setting up, so I treated myself to a delicious breakfast (one last decadent meal for the vacation), and went to browse the stands. I decided to splurge and but myself a jade pendant. I mentioned before that jade, or “greenstone” as it is more colloquially called, is really prominent in New Zealand. It has always been special to the Maori people, and there are certain shapes carved out of the stone that have special meaning to them; the twisted one that looks like a figure-8 (but can have more twists than just one), signifies two lives being bound together, and the spiral represents new birth. I bought a fishhook pendant. It represents “strength and determination and brings peace, prosperity and good health; also provides safe journey over water.” I am happy I have it, something to connect me to the country.

I wandered around for a little longer, then hopped on a shuttle to the International Antarctic Center. Way fun! I want to go there, man! Antarctica, that is. As an attraction, the center rocks! I rode on the Hägglund (the specialized vehicle for traveling over the harsh Antarctic terrain) on a cool obstacle course, watched a penguin feeding, weathered an Antarctic windstorm, watched all kinds of documentaries, and all-around boned up on my Antarctica trivia. The only thing I couldn’t find out was how much plane tickets are to get there. Very fun, though.

I walked from there to the international terminal across the street, dragging me increasingly dilapidated duffel behind me. I think this trip might be the end of the road for my duffel. I suppose it was never going to last forever. Besides, now that I’ve done a little bit of traveling, I desperately want to invest ina backpack. I think that I finally appreciate how much I can streamline my packing. My flight back to Sydney was on Emirates Airline. Love! It was so so nice! The food (lamb stew) was excellent, the wine was free, and I got to watch An Affair to Remember and have myself a good cry. (I think I need to move that film to my top 10. Maybe it’s there already.) But yeah, Emirates rocks.

When I got back to Sydney, I was going to see if I could ditch my duffel somewhere for the night so that I didn’t have to drag it around and further mutilate it. Note: it is impossible to get from the International Terminal to the Domestic Terminal on foot in Sydney, and you need to pay for the shuttle. What a crock! Well, I had a little sidewalk conference with one of the shuttle drivers, and we determined that I could save about $50 and a whole lot of hassle if I just crashed in the International Terminal for the night. Which I did. I figured, in addition to the economical benefit, it would just be an experience worth having once in my life, and why not have it on my terms? So I bought myself some junk food, busted out the book I bought in Christchurch (The Book Theif, an excellent read), and killed a couple of hours reading. Then it was time for the sleeping. The bench I had claimed in the terminal had four seats on it and was so close to being armless, and yet so far away. There was a sort of awkward divider kind of jutting out between each seat, so it was possible to avoid most of them if you curled up just right, but there was always at least one stubborn bar jabbing me. However, with some clever positioning of my sweatshirt, fleece and bookbag, I was able to sleep in hour increments throughout the night.

Hard to believe that morning comes early in an international terminal.

Day 11: Riding, improv, and a cute puppy

Friday, September 12th~

This morning got off to a foggy start, but it burned off pretty quickly. Vicki, Laura T., Laura H. and I got a ride from the Lodge manager over to Grasmere in order to do some horseback riding. I guess I just can’t get enough! I am so sooo glad I went riding again! It was such a great experience! Heather, the woman who owns the horses and runs the little horse-trekking business, greeted us in the yard with the horses already tacked up. The saddles weren’t western, but they weren’t English either, and were terribly comfortable. However, the coolest thing was that Heather is really conscious of the horses’ comfort, so she doesn’t use bits. The horses are trained to respond to the different tensions on the ropes tied loosely around their muzzles. So fantastic! I rode a great Clydesdale named Agnes. She was stubborn by nature, but I asserted myself fairly well at the beginning of the ride and soon she was doing (almost) everything I asked her to. We were riding single file for a while, meandering among the rolling hills of the rambling sheep station. I guess Heather thought I could handle myself pretty well, because after a while she said that Agnes and I could go off exploring away from the group. I was pretty tickled that she had such faith in me, truth be told. So Agnes and I wandered around, taking in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains and winding along the faint sheep trails. Unbelievable, friends. Positively stunning. I love horseback riding! Of course, our ride was over too quickly, but we had to get back to Flock Hill to meet the rest of the group for a farm show. (Somehow, Scotty and I managed to squeeze in a couple episodes of Family Guy, though.)

Now, the phrase “farm show”, for me, conjures images of performing farm animals or a staged “day on the farm.” Not the case at Flock Hill, though. Richie, the farmer, took us with him while he went about his business on the station. Today, he had to shift a mob of sheep (about 2000) from one paddock to another. We just stood back and watched him work the herd with the help of two of his dogs, Minnie and Claude. It was so neat to watch! The dogs were crazy-efficient and seemed to like showing off for us, too. At Richie’s suggestion, we shifted our departure time to a little bit later, went and got some lunch, then came back in time to watch them shear a few sheep. It was quite the spectacle. The shearers were magicians! Ooh! We also got to meet an adorable puppy named Mack. Like, crazy crazy adorable puppy. I wanted to keep him. We also met Cindy, Richie’s kids’ pet sheep. She reminded me of Ma from Babe.

Once we finally got on the road (now on the Ching Chong China Bus), we got to Christchurch in no time. We get there around 3pm and had plenty of time to kill before dinner; I spent most of it in an internet café and perusing souvenir shops. Since this was the end of the line for me (most of the group continued on to tour the North Island), I checked in at my hostel and caught up with the gang in time for dinner. We ate at the Dux deLux (yummy seafood Jumbalaya) before heading to the Court Theatre for an improv show called Scared Scriptless. It was hilarious! But it made me miss my days in –{Rough Edges>. A show highlight was definitely when they asked for suggestions from the audience for a body part, and an old woman further down our row whipped off her artificial leg and handed it to the MC. He was so excited he didn’t know what to do! There were some really great sketches (some that I still play in my head more than a week later), and the ensemble was solid. As we were leaving the theatre, Scotty asked what people wanted to do. Not terribly surprisingly, everyone opted to go to bed. I didn’t feel like calling it a night; if I went to bed, then the tour would be over. So I sat on a bench in Cathedral Square, journaling, listening to strains of Danny Boy and Auld Land Sine float into the square from a
distant flute, and trying to figure out how to get back to New Zealand.

Thus ends my New Zealand Connections tour.

A Night at the Opera

I had a really good seat at the opera. 9 rows back, maybe 10 seats from the center. As for the opera itself… well… Like I said, it was Mozart’s Don Giovanni, which is really an excellent opera. However, the director took a kind of modern approach which just didn’t sit well with me. The costumes were kind of wonky late-20th century, and the sets were super abstract, mainly orange and black. Leperello was a bum and Don Giovanni was wearing sweats and constantly doing blow. Zerlina was portrayed as, well, a slut really, with none of the innocence that I’ve always thought was the crux of the character. The director made choices, but I just didn’t feel that they synergized with the music and libretto. The cast was pretty phenomenal, vocally, but I couldn’t help but feeling that they were inhibited by the staging. Musetto was pretty forgettable. Everyone’s movements and characterization was pretty blah, no snap, no sharpness in their decisions on stage. Perhaps they were tired; it was nearly the end of the run. And when I closed my eyes, I found it to be a highly enjoyable experience.

I was sitting next to Beta (sp?) from Milan, Italy, which was a lot of fun. She’s been to two different operas at La Scalla, which is pretty cool. Don Giovanni is her favorite opera and she really enjoyed it, so I guess it just depends on your taste.

I got a cab home. The shoes were a painfully unfortunate choice.

*Update: As I pondered this post today, folding laundry, something else occurred to me. The whole production was kind of dragged into a modern setting, but Don Giovanni still killed Il Commendatore with a sword in the opening scene. A sword? If they were changing everything else, why not change that? Why not kill him with a hypodermic syringe or something? Yeah, I just didn’t like it. I think I would have preferred a much more traditional approach to the material. Call me old-fashioned!

Day 1: leaving the red centre

Tuesday, September 2nd~

Holiday! Today began the great adventure! Three days in Sydney plus a 7 day tour of New Zealand’s South Island and I am ready for it! Alison’s mom, Dorothy, kindly dropped me off at the airport, and I made it to Sydney with no incident. I hopped on a train, headed down town, found my hostel, and got settled in. At this point it was around 6:30, so I took off in search of food. Railway Square YHA is right on the brink of China Town, so I wandered past countless Asian restaurants, nothing really appealing to me. So I did what any girl would do all alone in the big city with nothing to eat. I went and saw Hellboy II. It was a funtime. After the movie, I still needed something to eat, so I hoofed it to a café at another youth hostel to get a bite to eat. I was sitting there, all by my lonesome, catty-corner from a girl who was sitting there all by her lonesome. I commented on how it sucks to eat alone, and she graciously invited me to join her! Shir was an absolutely delightful girl from Israel who had been traveling around Australia for some time now. We ate dinner and dessert and then got a drink at the adjoining bar (Scubar, I believe. Check it out if you’re in Sydney). It was so nice to have a friend! As it got later, we made plans to meet for lunch the next day, and I walked back to my hostel.

A quick word about my hostel: The Railway Square YHA is located walking distance from everything worth seeing in Sydney, which is convenient. What makes it really fun is that I slept in a converted train car. It was fun and cute. I felt like a boxcar kid. But, you know, not as cool.

What do you do with a river without any water?

I have mentioned the Todd River before; it is a long and wide and dry river bed that cuts through The Alice. You can't miss it, really. It is water-less almost all of the time, filling only after some really determined rain.

So naturally, what better place to have a regatta?

The Henley-on-Todd Regatta is an event so distinctly Alice Springs, it really just wouldn't fly (or float?) anywhere else in the world. Lucky for me, I left the hotel early enough on Saturday in order to see the bulk of the event.

Basically, the afternoon was filled with all different kinds of boating events, and teams and individuals compete with their "boats." The boats are basically metal frames roughly suggesting a boat, draped with banners and carried by the crew. Some of them are relatively tame, like the kayaking, which is the smallest boat manned by one person each and amounts to just a really awkward foot race. But you haven't seen awkward 'til you see the rowing Eights. Eight people stand in the frame of the boat in single file and hurl themselves along the river bed as fast as their feet can carry them; all well and good until someone in the middle wipes out and the people in the front don't stop and every one gets dragged into the coarse Todd sand... such good times. Another good one is the "Maxi-Yacht", which is teams of 8-10 carrying a considerably wider boat, but still hurdling along the same sandy expanse of river. There were some pretty spectacular collisions at the turning buoy in that one. And then there's the bathtub derby: 4 people carry a bathtub with someone in it up and down the arena (the two smart teams put a kid in theirs; the third team collapsed, including the adult in the tub).

The big end event is an all out naval battle, pitting three tricked out boat-trucks against each other. The weapons include hoses, water and flour bombs and flour cannons, and they all just chase each other around the river bed until the time is up. The winner is decided by applause, and you'll be happy to know that the pirates in their ship "The Nauteus" totally won. Apparently, it's the first time in recent memory that the Vikings haven't won. Which is cool. Because the vikings were wankers.

So this event has been happening for 47 years now. Only once has it been cancelled... due to water in the river.

Unbelievable.

(check out my pictures here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030328&l=7838a&id=173701181)

Ooh, and it makes me wonder

I think I mentioned the music they play at the steakhouse I work at before. It's kind of kitschy outback stuff, like "Tie Me Kangaroo Down, Sport" and "Home Among the Gum Trees" (those particular songs make up the diner-participation aspect of your dining experience.) But there is a true gem on the CD.

There is an outback/bush/folk version of the Led Zeppelin classic "Stairway to Heaven." Complete with wobble-boards.

It always puts a smile on my face.

Amadeus amadeus

I am less than a month away from my first Holiday adventure, which is terribly exciting as you can well imagine.

On September 2nd, I am going to fly to Sydney and hang out there until the 5th. On the 5th, I am flying to Christchurch, New Zealand, and on the 6th, I leave on a 7 day tour of the southern island, including hiking Fox Glacier and cruising in Fiordland. Then, on the 13th I fly back to Sydney and get back to Alice on the 14th. Not even two weeks. Perfect.

But what has me excited beyond all belief?

I just bought a ticket to see Mozart's Don Giovanni at the Sydney Opera House.

I am seeing an opera. at the sydney. opera. house.

I have basically been on the verge of tears with excitement since I booked my ticket.

MOZART AT THE SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE!!!